St. Etienne to San Sebastian - Pyrenees to the Sea

If I could describe the days ride in just a few words I would call it the "ride of a thousand photographs." That's how many times I would have stopped to take pictures.

We left St Etienne de Baigorry this morning in low cloud/fog. It was not long until it began to lift and combined with the morning light we had stunning views as we ascended the mountain. We left France and crossed the border between Spain and France a few times.

 

We began the day with a big climb right up the Pyrenees.the sign indicated a 6% grade, but that was just the average because I saw plenty of 8-10% showing on my Garmin. The scenery was so breathtaking that it just didn't seem to matter.

We had yet another downhill and then ascended again right away. Overall we climbed about 4,000 feet at almost all of it in the beginning. The most beautiful was the first as seen in the photos. The vegetation & rock formations were truly amazing.

We stopped for coffee in a small French Village. Once we finished all of the climbing we ended up in San Sebastián for the night.

 

This is a beautiful city known for its pintxos/tapas. It also has an amazing beach and we walked to the historic old town after wandering along the beach. We even took time to dip our toes in the Bay of Biscay.

 

 

Loved San Sebastián and could have spent many more days here exploring. We have two more days of riding, neither of which will be as tough as these past few but still have some challenges of their own Our rides have have been challenging but have left me with such a great sense of accomplishment. This has truly been a trip of a lifetime.

 

We have only 2 days left both of which will be easier than recent days.

 

 

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HELLOOOO France!

We exchanged our greetings from "Hola" to "Bonjour" as we entered France. On our rest day we toured the small town of St. John Pied-de-Port. From the Middle Ages it was a popular trading center located on a a heavily used route in the Pyrenees. Tradesmen, craftsmen peddlers, and pilgrims came to the market located n the middle of the small square.

We toured the town walking up and down the narrow and steeply pitched and narrow streets. A castle is located at the top of a steeply pitched hill to defend France from invaders crossing this important passageway through the Pyrenees. Even though this town is in France the residents still consider themselves Basque.

The castle/fortress provides a panoramic view of the surrounding area. A great way to keep an eye on sneaky invaders. The entrance even had a real moat! And here we are standing in it.

Spices were considered valuable in the early days and many travelers carried them instead of silver or gold to use as currency because they were so much lighter to carry. Here I am buying a few spices and some salt in the impressive spice shop in town. A local helped me translate.

It was a great day to wander and relax in town. We enjoyed lunch at a small restaurant featuring crepes. Mary Margaret and I shared a curried chicken one that was delicious.

We saw plenty of pilgrims and even these two guys who rode up the cobbles to the top just for fun - at least a 20% grade!

Most of you know I am pretty conservative in my eating habits, but when in France...eat like the French. We are staying in a small village and the meals have been provided by our little hotel - only the finest local fare, and I must say it was delicious. Squid in black ink and lamb, but not sure what part of the lamb. Hey, ya gotta go for it and live a little.

We have three more days of riding until the end of our tour and today we cycle to San Sebastian and back into Spain. Lucky us, we get to start the day with a few steeply pitched climbs! Oh well it will be a great way to warm up!

 

 

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Pamplona to St. Etienne, France

Yesterday we did our big ride over the Pyrenees from Pamplona, Spain into the small village of St. Etienne, France. We left Pamplona following intricate intersecting pathways of walking and bicycle trails that were car free and lovely. Here we are at a small dam along the way.

Then, pretty much the road went up, and up, and up. Funny thing is that it did not feel as difficult as anticipated. And when did 5-6% grades actually feel comfortable and 10-12% grades feel manageable?I think I finally found my pace and legs in the Pyrenees and it was not a chore. I even enjoyed the scenery on the way up as well as all the way down.

At each milestone along the way we stopped for many photo opportunities. We were riding most of the day right along the Camino and saw many pilgrims on their journey. We stopped and spoke to many of them and met people from France, Germany, Canada and of course France.

I met these two ladies in the lobby of our hotel this rnorning and they are what they called "mutual mother's in law." Their children married and they became friends and they joyfully reported that they have four mutual grandchildren. Here is their blog if you'd like to follow along. http://granniesoncamino.blogspot

So more about the Camino - Spilling over the Pyrenees from France into Spain, the network of trails that make up the Route of St. James—or El Camino de Santiago—converges at the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have trekked over the high plains of Castilla and the hills of Galicia, some to honor the Apostle James; others in the midst of their own spiritual journey. More photos to come.

When we reached the top we enjoyed even more spectacular views and got ready for our ride down the mountain into France. It was a full 28 km and before we began our descent we were happy we took the time to put on jackets.

Coming down the mountain I was a bit overwhelmed as I realized I had actually ridden this far and was entering France. I remembered the corporate days where we would ask "where do you see yourself in five years?" I certainly did not foresee myself flying down a road in the Pyrenees! I am actually amazed that I am able to do this. What a moment!

There is really not a border welcoming one to France but according to our maps this was the place and the signs changed from Spanish to French.

We made a quick stop in St. Jean Pied-de-Port for a quick look around. It is about seven miles from the hotel. This is where many of the pilgrims begin their trek. We have a rest day today and now that all the laundry is done we are going over to wander around St. John a bit. More about that tomorrow.

 

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Vitoria to Pamplona - Motorcycle encounter!

Today we had a fairly short ride, but short does not always mean easy - we climbed round 2900 feet, but had a killer downhill on the other side. We rode through vineyards and an area where the river becomes very salty and they make salt. The scenery was again spectacular and the roads lovely.
Today there were lots of motorcyclists out on the road taking advantage of the the beautiful weekend weather - in the 70's. Most of the bikes were of the smaller variety but I did see a few Gold Wings taking the tight turns. When we were about 5 km fro the top of the mountain when we stopped for a short break and I struck up a conversation with a few of the local motorcyclists and even showed them a picture of our bike alongside my handsome husband Bob. They were very interesting and one was even a racer. Of course I took time for a photo op. The eldest brother of the three insisted that I sit on his bike and we took anther picture.

I LOVE MAKING NEW FRIENDS ON THE ROAD!

I made it to yet another summit and then enjoyed the fast paced 10-15 km downhill - spectacular!

THATS THE DOWNHILL ROAD! YIKES!

We are now in Pamplona the city famous for the running of the Bulls. There was a major festival going on when we arrived. It was quite a challenge trying to get across the square. We had to walk through a sea of people and make a loop to reach the hotel. The city was alive with revelers and it was very festive.

After showering, and changing we hit the streets and enjoyed the numerous street vendors and the baked goods for sale. I bought a macaroon and quickly went back for four more and shared a few. I have two more that have saved for tomorrow's ride. Also had a REAL hot off the grill tortilla. Did I mention how hungry I have been with all this riding?

We had an early meal and then created out own "running of the Bulls moment" right through the streets of Pamplona. I even had time to visit with Ernest Henningway for a bit.

ME WITH MY FRIEND ERNEST HEMINGWAY - wrote "The Sun Also Rises" all about Pamplona. gotta go back and read it again.

Tomorrow we head to St. Jean Pied-de-Port as we cross the Pyrenees - it promises to be our out challenging day. Keeping the rubber side down and peddling one foot at a time. Having a blast!

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Vitoria to Pamplona - Motorcycles and Festivals

Today we had a fairly short ride, but short does not always mean easy - we climbed round 2900 feet, but had a killer downhill on the other side. We rode through vineyards and an area where the river becomes very salty and they make salt. The scenery was again spectacular and the roads lovely. 

Today there were lots of motorcyclists out on the road taking advantage of the the beautiful weekend weather - in the 70's. Most of the bikes were of the smaller variety but I did see a few Gold Wings taking the tight turns. When we were about 5 km fro the top of the mountain when we stopped for a short break and I struck up a conversation with a few of the local motorcyclists and even showed them a picture of our bike alongside my handsome husband Bob. They were very interesting and one was even a racer. Of course I took time for a photo op. The eldest brother of the three insisted that I sit on his bike and we took anther picture. 

I LOVE MAKING NEW FRIENDS ON THE ROAD!

I made it to yet another summit and then enjoyed the fast paced 10-15 km downhill - spectacular! 

THATS THE DOWNHILL ROAD! YIKES!

We are now in Pamplona the city famous for the running of the Bulls. There was a major festival going on when we arrived. It was quite a challenge trying to get across the square. We had to walk through a sea of people and make a loop to reach the hotel. The city was alive with revelers and it was very festive. 

After showering, and changing we hit the streets and enjoyed the numerous street vendors and the baked goods for sale. I bought a macaroon and quickly went back for four more and shared a few. I have two more that have saved for tomorrow's ride. Also had a REAL hot off the grill tortilla. Did I mention how hungry I have been with all this riding?

We had an early meal and then created out own "running of the Bulls moment" right through the streets of Pamplona. I even had time to visit with Ernest Henningway for a bit.

ME WITH MY FRIEND ERNEST HEMINGWAY - wrote "The Sun Also Rises" all about Pamplona. gotta go back and read it again. 

Tomorrow we head to St. Jean Pied-de-Port as we cross the Pyrenees - it promises to be our out challenging day. Keeping the rubber side down and peddling one foot at a time. Having a blast!