Final thoughts – and yes it is good to be home

We met many interesting people, climbed some challenging mountains and were treated to extraordinary vistas and screaming downhills. These out of the way places also offered the opportunity to meet the locals and have unique interactions that I will treasure forever. We saw mountains, seas, small villages, lots of cobbles, wineries, massive fields of sunflowers, crops and vineyards.

Each day was different as we traveled up some incredibly steep roads – yikes the road to St. John Pied-de-Port and the crossing over the Pyrenees was almost 4,000 feet of climbing and has been used a few years in the Tour de France – category two climb! But there were also lots of rolling hills and flats as well with plenty of stops available in small bars for coffee and snacks. The roads in Spain are in great shape making each day’s ride a pleasure.

The best part of the tour? Being with friends that were enjoying a shared experience. What fun as we conquered the challenges together, rode through the rain a few times and shared great meals and tapas and wine – yes, lots of wine! We created so many great memories that can only come from a tour like this.

Our tour company, IberoCycle tours, was fantastic! Each day was planned and we had clear route maps and nightly rider meetings providing additional details about the next day’s ride. Simon was a terrific guide and made sure everyone was accounted for as he accompanied us on our routes. There was not one time when we rode in that our bags were not waiting. Our provided meals, breakfasts, a few lunches and scheduled dinners were very good and it was a good time to visit and get to know all the riders. This type of service just doesn’t happen and takes a great deal of planning by Simon and his team.

Until the next adventure…thanks for following my blog and yes, it is good to be home!

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Lekeitio to Bilboa - bicycles, boats and trains - oh my!

We are now back in Bilbao after 2 great weeks riding in NW Spain. Of course after all this fun and never slowing down for almost a full month it has finally caught up with me. I am ending my adventure with a head cold that I came down with during the last few days. However, it has not deterred me from having fun and riding the last miles.

This morning we took time to award Sergio, our van and other tour guide with an official Trilogy Bicycle Club Jersey. Thanks Sergio for all you did for the group and your always present smile. Special thanks for hauling all of our bags and always having them at our hotels when we arrived.

 

Today we left Lekeitio after what had to be the best breakfast so far in the most charming of accommodations of the trip,

As we were leaving it began to rain and then we started climbing right from the get-go. There were a few challenges, but our legs have gotten so much stronger that everything was achievable for the first climb of the day...and then we saw this sign for the second climb.

The second climb is almost a wall according to the profile - this sign was at the bottom of the hill.

REALLY? Remember when these signs are posted, they are just an average for the upcoming hill. We saw the Garmin display lots of 10's - 12's but we all made it up this 2-3 km climb. What was really great is that several of us stayed at the top cheering everyone as they reached this particular summit. Some did it riding and a few got there walking part of the way. It was one long climb, but we all made it and it was definitely a group effort!

We have had some wonderful folks on this journey and sharing and encouraging each other made it all so much more manageable. We ascended a total of over 1,000 feet within the first 10 miles. We also had a killer 12% descent, yep still in the rain.

The beginning of this ride was really one of the most challenging and the rain and cold just added a new dynamic.

 

This last day had multiple options and we chose the least strenuous due to weather, overall fatigue and a general desire to get home safely. We did ride about 30km with the two good climbs described above - to shorten the day Simon organized a boat ride across the mouth of an estuary which otherwise would have been a 30km ride on not great roads.

It was a beautiful boat trip, but some of us did not ride at all. But no matter what each of us chose to do was good as it was quite cold and we had already come so far together.

Those of us who did go on the boat from across the sea found the ride to be quite beautiful but a bit cold. Here's Ken in his cool duds in what I think was the photo opportunity of the day. Handsome outfit Ken!

Once we were off the boat and warming up over a cup of coffee several of us opted to take the final leg of our journey by train into Bilbao.

I will write a final entry soon, maybe on my train ride tomorrow to Barcelona. But for tonight I end with a great big thank you to all of you have read about my adventures that I have posted on this blog. I have appreciated your comments on the blog, Facebook or through email. I am ready for home and excited to reunite with my most wonderful and supportive husband And I am looking forward to the luxury of a washing machine!

Cheers from Espana! And thank you Simon and Sergio of Iberocycle for a most excellent adventure. I would highly recommend his company for both guided and self-guided tours.

 

 

 

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San Sebastián to Lekeitio -UP!

Well wouldn't you know that just when you expect a fairly easy day you are a bit deceived by the ride profile. "No worries, just 3500 to 4000 feet of climbing." However, most of it took place over 30/40+ km, yes, that's right, over around 22/24 or so miles. That means some very steep grades - I swear I saw a 12 percenter in there and many 8-11's as well.

Now let's just make it a bit more fun and add some seriously narrow Oceanside roads, big trucks, traffic and lots of pedestrians and oh wait, a bit of wind and I think you get the picture. It was a very challenging day.

Why this photo? They call this small island "Raton" which means mouse in Spanish. Can you see it?

Redeeming qualities? Once again some spectacular scenery that reminded me of traveling down highway one in California. As we went inland the mountains sported eucalyptus and pine trees and lots of farmland, sheep, horses and cows - love their bells! The higher we climbed the better the views. Of course there were lots of charming villages.

We have all gotten stronger as the days have gone on and even though it was tough it was an achievable day. When we arrived in Leketo, a seaside town, we went straight to the seaport area where there are little cafes and ordered a round of beer for a job well done.

Today we do our last ride to Bilboa and it promises to be very interesting with cycling, a boat trip & likely the train/metro especially if it rains as predicted.

Best clothesline opportunity ever - beamed ceilings!

 

 

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St. Etienne to San Sebastian - Pyrenees to the Sea

If I could describe the days ride in just a few words I would call it the "ride of a thousand photographs." That's how many times I would have stopped to take pictures.

We left St Etienne de Baigorry this morning in low cloud/fog. It was not long until it began to lift and combined with the morning light we had stunning views as we ascended the mountain. We left France and crossed the border between Spain and France a few times.

 

We began the day with a big climb right up the Pyrenees.the sign indicated a 6% grade, but that was just the average because I saw plenty of 8-10% showing on my Garmin. The scenery was so breathtaking that it just didn't seem to matter.

We had yet another downhill and then ascended again right away. Overall we climbed about 4,000 feet at almost all of it in the beginning. The most beautiful was the first as seen in the photos. The vegetation & rock formations were truly amazing.

We stopped for coffee in a small French Village. Once we finished all of the climbing we ended up in San Sebastián for the night.

 

This is a beautiful city known for its pintxos/tapas. It also has an amazing beach and we walked to the historic old town after wandering along the beach. We even took time to dip our toes in the Bay of Biscay.

 

 

Loved San Sebastián and could have spent many more days here exploring. We have two more days of riding, neither of which will be as tough as these past few but still have some challenges of their own Our rides have have been challenging but have left me with such a great sense of accomplishment. This has truly been a trip of a lifetime.

 

We have only 2 days left both of which will be easier than recent days.

 

 

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HELLOOOO France!

We exchanged our greetings from "Hola" to "Bonjour" as we entered France. On our rest day we toured the small town of St. John Pied-de-Port. From the Middle Ages it was a popular trading center located on a a heavily used route in the Pyrenees. Tradesmen, craftsmen peddlers, and pilgrims came to the market located n the middle of the small square.

We toured the town walking up and down the narrow and steeply pitched and narrow streets. A castle is located at the top of a steeply pitched hill to defend France from invaders crossing this important passageway through the Pyrenees. Even though this town is in France the residents still consider themselves Basque.

The castle/fortress provides a panoramic view of the surrounding area. A great way to keep an eye on sneaky invaders. The entrance even had a real moat! And here we are standing in it.

Spices were considered valuable in the early days and many travelers carried them instead of silver or gold to use as currency because they were so much lighter to carry. Here I am buying a few spices and some salt in the impressive spice shop in town. A local helped me translate.

It was a great day to wander and relax in town. We enjoyed lunch at a small restaurant featuring crepes. Mary Margaret and I shared a curried chicken one that was delicious.

We saw plenty of pilgrims and even these two guys who rode up the cobbles to the top just for fun - at least a 20% grade!

Most of you know I am pretty conservative in my eating habits, but when in France...eat like the French. We are staying in a small village and the meals have been provided by our little hotel - only the finest local fare, and I must say it was delicious. Squid in black ink and lamb, but not sure what part of the lamb. Hey, ya gotta go for it and live a little.

We have three more days of riding until the end of our tour and today we cycle to San Sebastian and back into Spain. Lucky us, we get to start the day with a few steeply pitched climbs! Oh well it will be a great way to warm up!

 

 

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Pamplona to St. Etienne, France

Yesterday we did our big ride over the Pyrenees from Pamplona, Spain into the small village of St. Etienne, France. We left Pamplona following intricate intersecting pathways of walking and bicycle trails that were car free and lovely. Here we are at a small dam along the way.

Then, pretty much the road went up, and up, and up. Funny thing is that it did not feel as difficult as anticipated. And when did 5-6% grades actually feel comfortable and 10-12% grades feel manageable?I think I finally found my pace and legs in the Pyrenees and it was not a chore. I even enjoyed the scenery on the way up as well as all the way down.

At each milestone along the way we stopped for many photo opportunities. We were riding most of the day right along the Camino and saw many pilgrims on their journey. We stopped and spoke to many of them and met people from France, Germany, Canada and of course France.

I met these two ladies in the lobby of our hotel this rnorning and they are what they called "mutual mother's in law." Their children married and they became friends and they joyfully reported that they have four mutual grandchildren. Here is their blog if you'd like to follow along. http://granniesoncamino.blogspot

So more about the Camino - Spilling over the Pyrenees from France into Spain, the network of trails that make up the Route of St. James—or El Camino de Santiago—converges at the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have trekked over the high plains of Castilla and the hills of Galicia, some to honor the Apostle James; others in the midst of their own spiritual journey. More photos to come.

When we reached the top we enjoyed even more spectacular views and got ready for our ride down the mountain into France. It was a full 28 km and before we began our descent we were happy we took the time to put on jackets.

Coming down the mountain I was a bit overwhelmed as I realized I had actually ridden this far and was entering France. I remembered the corporate days where we would ask "where do you see yourself in five years?" I certainly did not foresee myself flying down a road in the Pyrenees! I am actually amazed that I am able to do this. What a moment!

There is really not a border welcoming one to France but according to our maps this was the place and the signs changed from Spanish to French.

We made a quick stop in St. Jean Pied-de-Port for a quick look around. It is about seven miles from the hotel. This is where many of the pilgrims begin their trek. We have a rest day today and now that all the laundry is done we are going over to wander around St. John a bit. More about that tomorrow.

 

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